Italians are a proud bunch and none more so than Florentines. History that helped shape western culture is prominent all over the city, how could someone not be proud to be a part of a city with such a heritage behind it. I half expected throngs of people in the street to rise up the cry of the Medici “palle, palle, palle”. My roommates and I would play a game where we photographed any Medici crest we could find and send it to each other with the tag of “Balls”. I lived with two art history students who loved nothing more than sharing the history of the city with me while I would enlighten them to excellent places to eat and drink. Only once did we, guiltily, go for burgers at the Hard Rock Café just for a little taste of home.
Sant’Ambrogio market in Florence boasts having the oldest farmers and vendors in all of the city. The produce is a rainbow of fresh, seasonal offerings that delight; it is unlike any I have had to date, the freshness is next to none and the flavour is so much more intense. Just trying a tomato here is guaranteed to put you into sensory overload. I would walk the mercato in the mornings before school as the farmers were setting up the stalls for the day. I made friends with some of the vendors who encouraged me to try new things all while helping me practice my conversational Italian. One particular bread vendor was so kind that he would discount my bread purchase based on how long I could hold a conversation with him in Italian.
There are few tourists wandering the vendor stalls at Sant’Ambrogio. It is a bit ramshackle and chaotic with shoes being sold next to strawberries, next to roast porchetta sitting out, but honestly, it is the best place for the authentic Italian market experience. One of my school mates was turned off by what she considered to be “unhygienic” food practices, she also freaked out when she saw that eggs were not stored in the refrigerator in the grocery stores. Once you let go of what your culture considers to be the norm it opens you up to a new host of experiences.
Just outside Sant’Ambrogio market is also one of the best tripe stands in all of Florence to get authentic trippa alla Fiorentina. Now, I know what you’re thinking, eep tripe but trust me, have courage, its well worth it! Another gem in this neighbourhood is Il Procopio gelato shop, it is well worth the detour for their pistachio gelato. The pistachios are sourced from one single farm where the farmer hand harvests the nuts that are grown in volcanic soil. I still have dreams about this slightly smoky, decadently creamy and luxurious gelato. It runs out quickly so go early, besides, who doesn’t love gelato for breakfast?
The Mercato Centrale is a huge sprawling warehouse of vendors, a food court and culinary day school nestled in streets packed with all kinds of vendors, I got the most amazing leather jacket from one of those vendors, but it is a tourist central. Very few locals shop there. It is designed for tourists to get them to spend a few euros more on the same product that the locals buy at other markets. It is a fun experience to go visit and walk through the bustle, if you are looking for souvenirs they are all in heavy concentration there.
On Via Verdi is one of my favourite shops of all time, Pino’s. Pino is an amazing man who makes the best panini, hands down. He bakes the bread fresh ever day, along with so many more fresh made options and, trust me, I did go many, many days in a row. Too many times for a student budget but worth every penny. Pino also does wine tastings at Pozzo Divino which is a small wine shop that has an underground cellar where he hosts the tastings. The cellar was once a well that attached to a prison through a tunnel underground. Pino is a showman and a wonderfully talented sommelier, he tries his best in English and has assistants to translate for him but even if your Italian isn’t the greatest it is still a must have experience. Pro Tip: Italians do not spit out the wine while tasting, it would be such a shame to waste a beautiful wine.
Christmas markets and international food festivals are an amazing opportunity to eat al fresco, especially with the new restrictions to prevent tourists eating around the city. It is frowned upon to walk around and eat, you will never see a local doing that; they order and eat at the patios provided. Eating while walking around is doing a disservice to the amazing food, it distracts from the flavour and the effort put into it; it’s disrespectful. Florence University of the Arts had expat advisers who cautioned against it during induction our first day of school. So slow down, taste the food, enjoy the moment! You are in Italy!